We’ve been getting quite a few requests for more details on how we undermounted our kitchen sink. So, we’ll be taking a short break from bath related posts to wrap up a few things in the kitchen
If you’re familiar with Ikea’s Domsjo sink, then you know how incredibly affordable it is when compared to other farmhouse style sinks on the market. Hello, under $150 with discount? Sign us up. That being said, one of the major drawbacks was that it’s an overmount sink (sits on top of the countertop). Bleh. We had an overmount sink in our previous home and on top of the aesthetic disadvantage, we also found that crumbs were always making their way into the seam, and clean up was completely dysfunctional. We love that an undermount sink makes everything seamless. Easy for wiping down the counters and no hidden spots for germs and food to collect. Plus, she’s gorge..
The cabinet we chose to use, Akurum’s 23 7/8″ base cabinet for single bowl sink, is actually no different than what is recommended for the regular overmount installation of the sink. So, pretty easy there. However, we switched out the two standard door fronts for a 24″x18″ style that better fits the adjusted cabinet.
(Note that if you decide to go with the larger version of the Domsjo sink, these plans would obviously need some altering)
It’s important to set the base cabinet just as the others are throughout the kitchen prior to making any adjustments. This ensures that the cabinet and sink will sit level and line up with the adjacent base cabinets. Ok, now you can whip out the drill and jig saw
We began by using a jigsaw to remove 3/4 inch (slightly more than the height of the sink lip) from the top of each side panel on the base cabinet. This allows room for the lip that extends on each side of the sink so it can sit snug beneath the countertop.
We then used a 1/8 inch drill bit to pre-drill the holes for the front and rear support braces. The braces are included with the sink, but the holes that come pre-drilled in the base cabinet no longer line up after dropping the sink height 3/4 inch. We also bumped the brace back slightly to allow for safe placement of the new pre-drilled holes. Placing them directly in the line of Ikea’s pre-drilled holes would provide all the necessary conditions for the wood to split. Install the braces as normal, substituting Ikea’s provided screws with 3/4 inch wood screws to fit the new openings.
Next up, placing the sink. She’s pretty heavy, weighing just over 70 lbs, so we’d definitely recommend two people for this step. Other than that, pretty self-explanatory. Put the sink in the cabinet, resting on top of the braces.
Once the sink is in place, we began installing the middle mounting brackets. These are located on each side panel between the front and rear braces. We don’t have a picture for this step, but the brackets are included with the sink and were installed just as previously described for the front and rear braces. Again, we pre-drilled new holes and used wood screws to secure. Check.
Before moving onto the install of the plumbing you’ll want to ensure that everything is level and make adjustments as needed. Ricky likes to brag that he had everything level on the first try, aka the go-ahead for me to hand out more projects for my newly found carpenter. We’ll let him keep talking.
Now, onto the exterior of the cabinet. The two doors (12×24″) that are included with the base cabinet no longer fit after lowering the sink significantly. And because Ikea doesn’t offer replacement doors in a 12×18″ size allowing for two side by side doors, we opted to go with a single 24×18″ option instead. This size is the closest fit, with minimal filler pieces. Leading me to the final step… filler. Any wood piece could be used to fill the remaining space between the door and the bottom of the sink, but we chose to use the toe-kick intended for the base cabinets. Ikea sells these pieces in 8 foot length sections, which we used in several areas throughout the kitchen. Definitely worth purchasing if you’ll be DIYing an Ikea kitchen of your own.
Our undermount sink is by no means perfect, and we’re sure there are several ways to go about this process (which we’d love to see!) but we are beyond thrilled with the result. Hopefully this tutorial was helpful for those of you looking to recreate the look. If I’ve left anything out or completely confused anyone just let me know and I’ll try to clear things up.
Happy 4th of July for those of you in the States! We’ll be spending the 96 degree day with friends and family, and hopefully near a pool