July 4, 2012

How to Undermount Ikea’s Domsjo Sink

We’ve been getting quite a few requests for more details on how we undermounted our kitchen sink. So, we’ll be taking a short break from bath related posts to wrap up a few things in the kitchen :)

If you’re familiar with Ikea’s Domsjo sink, then you know how incredibly affordable it is when compared to other farmhouse style sinks on the market. Hello, under $150 with discount? Sign us up. That being said, one of the major drawbacks was that it’s an overmount sink (sits on top of the countertop). Bleh. We had an overmount sink in our previous home and on top of the aesthetic disadvantage, we also found that crumbs were always making their way into the seam, and clean up was completely dysfunctional. We love that an undermount sink makes everything seamless. Easy for wiping down the counters and no hidden spots for germs and food to collect. Plus, she’s gorge..

First things first. The link to the sink we used as well as the specific cabinet and substitute door front.

The cabinet we chose to use, Akurum’s 23 7/8″ base cabinet for single bowl sink, is actually no different than what is recommended for the regular overmount installation of the sink. So, pretty easy there. However, we switched out the two standard door fronts for a 24″x18″ style that better fits the adjusted cabinet.

(Note that if you decide to go with the larger version of the Domsjo sink, these plans would obviously need some altering)

It’s important to set the base cabinet just as the others are throughout the kitchen prior to making any adjustments. This ensures that the cabinet and sink will sit level and line up with the adjacent base cabinets. Ok, now you can whip out the drill and jig saw ;)

We began by using a jigsaw to remove 3/4 inch (slightly more than the height of the sink lip) from the top of each side panel on the base cabinet. This allows room for the lip that extends on each side of the sink so it can sit snug beneath the countertop.

We then used a 1/8 inch drill bit to pre-drill the holes for the front and rear support braces. The braces are included with the sink, but the holes that come pre-drilled in the base cabinet no longer line up after dropping the sink height 3/4 inch. We also bumped the brace back slightly to allow for safe placement of the new pre-drilled holes. Placing them directly in the line of Ikea’s pre-drilled holes would provide all the necessary conditions for the wood to split. Install the braces as normal, substituting Ikea’s provided screws with 3/4 inch wood screws to fit the new openings.

Next up, placing the sink. She’s pretty heavy, weighing just over 70 lbs, so we’d definitely recommend two people for this step. Other than that, pretty self-explanatory. Put the sink in the cabinet, resting on top of the braces.

Once the sink is in place, we began installing the middle mounting brackets. These are located on each side panel between the front and rear braces. We don’t have a picture for this step, but the brackets are included with the sink and were installed just as previously described for the front and rear braces. Again, we pre-drilled new holes and used wood screws to secure. Check.

Before moving onto the install of the plumbing you’ll want to ensure that everything is level and make adjustments as needed. Ricky likes to brag that he had everything level on the first try, aka the go-ahead for me to hand out more projects for my newly found carpenter. ;) We’ll let him keep talking.

Now, onto the exterior of the cabinet. The two doors (12×24″) that are included with the base cabinet no longer fit after lowering the sink significantly. And because Ikea doesn’t offer replacement doors in a 12×18″ size allowing for two side by side doors, we opted to go with a single 24×18″ option instead. This size is the closest fit, with minimal filler pieces. Leading me to the final step… filler. Any wood piece could be used to fill the remaining space between the door and the bottom of the sink, but we chose to use the toe-kick intended for the base cabinets. Ikea sells these pieces in 8 foot length sections, which we used in several areas throughout the kitchen. Definitely worth purchasing if you’ll be DIYing an Ikea kitchen of your own.

Our undermount sink is by no means perfect, and we’re sure there are several ways to go about this process (which we’d love to see!) but we are beyond thrilled with the result. Hopefully this tutorial was helpful for those of you looking to recreate the look. If I’ve left anything out or completely confused anyone just let me know and I’ll try to clear things up.

Happy 4th of July for those of you in the States! We’ll be spending the 96 degree day with friends and family, and hopefully near a pool :)

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52 thoughts on “How to Undermount Ikea’s Domsjo Sink

  1. Hillary

    Nice hack! I love it! I bet the sink base would be cute with a cafe rod and curtain instead of a door, too…for anyone who is intimidated by the filler and different door size.

    Reply
  2. Jessica

    Was there any issue with the plumbing? Im worried about not having enough room to line up the disposal with the sink being lowered.

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Hi Jessica,
      We didn’t run into any problems with the plumbing and we had plenty of room for the disposal still. This may depend on the size of your disposal though. I would check measurements before purchasing :)
      Jessie

      Reply
      1. Jessica McAuley

        Great! Thanks! We’ve measured it…I think its going to be tight but hope it will work. Did you get your disposal from Ikea?

        Reply
        1. Jessie R. Post author

          Jessica,
          We didn’t get our disposal at Ikea, but it’s a standard size I believe. Hope this helps!
          Jessie

          Reply
  3. 410berry5

    We did the same thing in our kitchen, but with an undermount stainless steel farmhouse sink. It was a little challenging working with the IKEA cabinets for the sink, but only because they only offer a few door sizes that would work with an undermount and we were left with the gap above the doors. We ended up using IKEA drawer fronts cut to size to cover the filler piece above the cabinet doors. It looks great! Your kitchen looks great!

    Reply
  4. Jim T.

    Thank you so much! Your directions worked wonderfully. Under the sink is our only option for a garbage bin. So the toe-kick panel and smaller door option would limit the size of waste bin that would fit. I trimmed the bottom of the 12″x24″ door and notched out the frame so the hinges would still fit. I sealed this area with white fingernail polish and the bottom cut edge of the doors with polyurethane. Luckily we were working with the flat Applad doors so trimming the bottoms didn’t effect the look and balance of the door.

    Here are some photos:
    http://goo.gl/TFj5c
    http://goo.gl/8rVNt
    http://goo.gl/J2dRq

    Reply
  5. Wendy B.

    Hi Jessie!
    Found my way here from YHL. Your kitchen redo is fabulous! I’ve been drooling over those Ikea cabinets and sink for years and was so syked to see you’ve undermounted the sink. I just love the pallet wall too!
    Nice job!

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Thanks Sandra! We actually purchased the countertops through a local granite supplier, they’re soapstone. Hope that helps :)

      Jessie

      Reply
  6. Heather

    I’ve been planning on an Ikea kitchen with an under-mounted Domsjo double sink. your pictures look great! But I was wondering, what if, instead of cutting down the sides of the cabinet by 3/4 of an inch, one simply used shorter legs? As in, use the standard 4 inch Ikea legs for the surrounding cabinets, and then used 3 inch legs on the sink cabinet? Yes, the kick space would be uneven, as in, slightly lower beneath the sink. But I feel like I could disguise that, or learn to live with it.

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Sounds like a good plan to me! Our pantry (on the very left side of the kitchen) sits lower than the surrounding cabinets. We didn’t have any other choice, and it at the time I imagined it would drive me crazy… 9 months later, I don’t notice it one bit haha. So I say go for it!!

      Jessie

      Reply
  7. jkferrie

    I’m thinking of getting the Domsjo sink as well. We live 2 hours away from the closest Ikea, and I’ve been searching on line for the inside dimensions of the sink. Would you be able to measure the width, length and specifically the depth for me? I just don’t want to drive all that way and be disappointed. How has the sink held up for you? Are you still happy with it? I’d be incredibly thankful!! Your kitchen it simply lovely, BTW!!

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Of course! The inside of the sink is 21″W x 19″L x 8″D. Also wanted to mention, the length is 19″ at the top of the sink, but it slants inward towards the bottom of the sink and gets slightly smaller. Hope that makes sense! The sink is holding up perfectly. We adore it! One of my favorite pieces in the kitchen :)

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
  8. Rachel

    Hello! I LOOOOOOOOVE your kitchen! We are contemplating undermounting the domsjo sink as well and was wondering if you could tell me what thickness your countertop is? We were told it has to be 1 1/4 for overmount but does that change when you undermount it?
    Thanks!!!

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Thanks, Rachel!

      Our countertops are 1 1/4″ thick , but I’m thinking that with an undermount sink it shouldn’t matter, since you’d have to custom cut the cabinet below regardless. Hope that helps!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
  9. Maria

    Hi Jessie,

    My husband and I are in full kitchen reno mode. We are going with the IKEA butcher block and are currently trying to narrow down our sink options. Do you feel like the Domsjo single sink is big enough? We are trying to decide between the double or single.

    Thanks,
    Maria

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      The Domsjo sink is perfectly sized for us. Our major concern was it being deep enough for large pots and pans, which it is. That being said, we’re not crazy about cooking or making meals for large amounts of people. I can’t imagine that it’d be too small for that, but I can’t really speak from that side. Hope that helps!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
  10. Alison

    Thank you! We are coincidentally buying the same sink and cabinets this weekend, and I REALLY didn’t want the crumb-catching sides. This will come in so handy!

    Reply
  11. Jim

    You could also lower the entire cabinet the required amount. This would not only be easier but add a nice architectural feature as well.

    Reply
  12. wendy burns

    Hi Jessie! This is genius! I LOVE what you’ve done with your home and have been planning an Ikea kitchen reno myself in the near future. I’ve been coveting the Domjso double sink and am excited to see it is possible to undermount it! I noticed in your pictures a small space on the left side of your sink cabinet. Is that from the sink undermounting or just an illusion from the camera angle? P.S. i can’t wait to see your new addition!

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Thanks, Wendy! Check out the comment section, I just provided a little more insight on the small gap you’re seeing. Hope that helps!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
  13. Matt

    I have a question and really hope this message finds you. We really want to incorporate the Domsjo as an undermount as you have. However on the left side it appears you have a gap. I dont see a gap on the right side.

    My fear is Domsjo sink is probably 25 ¼” wide due the large lip that is supposed to sit on the countertop. When it get recessed like that, the lip still sticks past the cabinet frame by maybe ¾” which is leading to the gap I am seeing. But Iam unclear on why I only see it only on one side? This is the very first picture.

    I would want the cabinets to be tight to the sink base cabinet and I am wondering if thats possible if the Domsjo sink is wider than the sink base cabinet.

    Hopefully that makes sense. Any insight?

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Hi Matt,

      Sorry for the confusion, hopefully this helps clear any issues up. When the sink is recessed below counter level, it does in fact exceed the cabinet base. It’s hard to see in the photos, but we added a small filler piece to the right side of the cabinet (between the sink base and the adjacent cabinet). It’s cut down, just as the sink cabinet was, and fills the gap that would’ve been there. We would have added a filler piece to fill the gap on the left side of the sink as well, but the dishwasher would not allow it. If you have any other cabinet, I’m assuming it would work just fine. Hope that helps!

      Jessie

      Reply
      1. wendy b.

        Thanks Jessie! I’m TOTALY doing this in my kitchen! I’m stealing your built in bench too! Thanks for giving me such a great visual to show my husband!

        Reply
  14. Matt

    Thank you Jessie. So you indeed do have a filler piece on the right side! I thought you might, but the left side was throwing me off with that gap. Is the height of the vertical filler piece the same height as the cabinet directly to right of the sink?

    Also how much space do you have behind your faucet in relation to the wall. Undermounting should not increase or decrease the depth of the sink bowl..right?

    I ask because the backsplash will be granite or quartz and I want to make sure enough space exists bewteen faucet stem and the wall…….. to account for the thickness of the backsplash. I am sure I am over thinking this one!

    Reply
  15. Lauren

    Oh my goodness, so many questions you have been answering about your wonderful sink! LOL. I have read all through and can’t find an answer to mine. I see you told someone that the measurement of the inside of the sink is 8 inches, can you please tell me about the outside of the sink from top to bottom? How much is that? I am thinking its more than 8 inches…

    THANKS!

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Oh, this is a tricky question.. Yes, the inside of the sink measures 8″H. The outside actually measures 8″ as well. The sink slopes downward from the front to the back. Meaning it’s shorter in the front than the back. I can’t access the back of the sink for height measurements, but the front is 8″. The inside varies a little, depending on front of back of sink, but averages around 8″. Does that make sense? It’s really something you have to see in person.

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Hi Jim,

      Not sure on the exact dimensions, but it sits snuggly with the bottom of the countertop. That might be something you’d have to look into depending on your countertop thickness. Hope that helps!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
  16. jenn

    I’ve been planning on getting this sink because the cost is just so affordable, but I was a little disappointed to know I’d have to live with a counter-top mount. however tonight as I was watching the voice I randomly wondered about mounting it under the counters and I just knew someone else probably already had this idea… and sure enough I found your site! Thank you so much for sharing you process as well as answering in the comments. I was hoping you might be able to answer one more. How did the installers install the counter on top? is it just resting on top of the sink? what about installing the faucet, since the counter plus the sink adds a bit of thickness, were there any issues installing the faucet? Thank you!

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      So glad you found us :) The countertop was installed pretty standard, right over the sink. The cabinets provided all the support it needed. And we didn’t run into any issues with the faucet. Hope that helps!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
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  18. Matt

    Were days away from installing and all set on the undermount as your blog laid out. Per my earlier question, you indicated to the right of the base cabinet you do have a filler piece to account for the fact the lip of the sink, when placed on the sink base cabinet, overhangs some .50-.75’’ thus creating a gap. Similar to you, we will have the dishwasher to the left of the sink. I know you mentioned in in your previous response “We would have added a filler piece to fill the gap on the left side of the sink as well, but the dishwasher would not allow it”.

    Was it because you did not have enough room to add a filler? Or was it because the side of the dishwasher for some reason prevented it. I am simply trying to understand if that gap can be filled or not. (The one bewteen sink baseband dishwasher)

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      I looked into this, and I don’t see an issue with having a filler piece beside the dishwasher. We may have just been unable to do so because of the dimension restraints.. It was an after thought, so it was going to off center the sink below the window. Should be doable though if you’ve planned for it. Hope that clears things up!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
  19. Christine

    Hey Jessie,

    LOVE your blog, love your kitchen, love your house, love your aesthetic! Very nice! I’ve been obsessing about my own kitchen renovation and doing a lot of research online and stumbled across your blog. So glad I did!!

    We’re thinking of doing an IKEA kitchen remodel too and I love what you’ve done. I’m wondering….could you have chosen a 21×24 door for the cabinet below the sink, to make the panel come closer to the sink…still leaving the filler piece there, but covering it with the panel when the door is closed? Would this have worked?

    I ask because I love the idea of this sink being undermount, and want it for my own kitchen remodel, but would prefer to see the cabinet door come up to the sink as far as possible.

    Also, how are your appliances working out. We were considering IKEA appliances, but have heard mixed reviews. Of primary concern is that the fridge drawers don’t keep fruits & veg at the right temp and the dishwasher is really loud. What has been your experience?

    Reply
    1. Jessie R. Post author

      Thanks, Christine! I just did some measuring and I would think the 21×24″ door would work. Ikea gets new products in all the time, so I’m going to assume that they just didn’t have this door size when we remodeled our kitchen.. Unless, we just overlooked it. Totally possible. Great idea though, we may have to make the switch ourselves!

      As far as the Ikea appliances go, we couldn’t be happier. We haven’t noticed the dishwasher being extremely loud, and we spend plenty of time in the adjacent rooms while it’s running. I can’t vouch for the fridge drawer temps, since we don’t use ours for fruits and veggies.. We usually just store those up top so I wouldn’t know how well they maintain specific temperatures. One thing I will mention about the fridge though, the shelf heights don’t offer much variety. We liked to have a drawer placed higher for deli products and drawers can only be on the bottom. Not a huge deal, but it was something we had to adjust to. Hope that helps!

      xo,
      Jessie

      Reply
      1. Jessie R. Post author

        Update: I just looked into the door situation further and I don’t think the 21″x24″ door would work as I’d thought in the previous comment. That size is actually 21″W x 24″H and as far as I know you CAN NOT just simply rotate the door and flip flop the width and height. The opening below the sink would call for a 24″W x 21″H door, which Ikea does not offer. The closest option is the 24″W x 18″H door. Hope that clears things up!

        xo,
        Jessie

        Reply
  20. Mat

    Hi Jessie

    Can you ask the husband or perhaps clarify. In step one when you drilled the new holes using the 1/8 drill bit, did you first place the sink in the base cabinet to see how far the sink sat inside the cabinet and the placed the brackets up tight to the underside of the sink. This would be a way to determine where to drill the holes Or did you just measure .75” down from the hole the manual indicates to use attach the bracket? I want make sure the bracket is touching the underside of the sink and no gap exists!

    Secondly, looking at the Domsjo manual I only see 2 brackets listed. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/assembly_instructions/domsjo-sink-bowl__AA-233298-4_pub.PDF

    In your guide above you say “Once the sink is in place, we began installing the middle mounting brackets. These are located on each side panel between the front and rear braces. We don’t have a picture for this step, but the brackets are included with the sink and were installed just as previously described for the front and rear braces.”

    I don’t see in the manual anything about middle brackets. Its sounds like you installed 4 brackets total (front/read and the middles), yet the manual only shows 2? Any clarification on that.

    Thanks again!

    Reply
  21. Mat

    Disregard my questions. I went to IKEA and looked and how they did it! Now it makes sense! Thanks again for sharing this idea. It looks awesome

    Reply
  22. Anna @ IKDO - Ikea Kitchen Design Online

    Hi there! Thanks a lot for sharing such a useful post! When we modify cabinets for a DOMSJO sink, we use a toekick piece as a filler but we’ve never tried to “undermount” the DOMSJO. We’ll check how we can do it with a 36″-wide sink and we’ll share it with you once we have it.

    Great job!

    Reply
  23. Toni

    Can you tell me what faucet you used? Our plumber is concerned that our counter tops (3 cm quartz) and the lip of the domsjo sink will be too thick for a normal faucet “shank”. It looks like you have about a 3 cm countertop–did you have any problems with finding a faucet long enough to go through the sink and counter and connect to pipes below the sink?

    Reply
  24. Sammy

    Why not just raise the counter top by 3/4 inch by placing a piece of 3/4 plywood so it is flush with the top of the sink, then have your bullnose countertop hang over the face 3/4 of an inch to hide it the plywood? The counter will look 3/4 inch thicker? I am going to build concrete counter tops then have them polished. When I am done my countertop will be 36 1/2 inches. I might lower it an inch by cutting the toe kick an inch. By doing it this way I will not need to modify the cabinet.

    Reply
    1. Geremiah

      Sammy – did you ever try raising the countertop by 3/4 instead of cutting the cabinet? How did it work out? any problems putting in a faucet with the extra counter height? Pictures?

      Reply
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