A few of you have been asking for more details regarding the kitchen island construction as well as the island countertop. Today we’ll cover the cabinet choices that we made and how we DIYed the butcher block.
First up, the island base. We used Ikea’s online kitchen planner to plan out every inch of our kitchen. Whether you’re going with an Ikea or not, I would highly recommend giving this program a shot. If you have your kitchen dimension you can get a great visual of all the possible layouts. We chose to do a 6′ x 3′ island base with approx. 6’x4′ countertop (12 inch overhang for the counter-height seating). Here’s the top-view using the kitchen planner:
1 – 30″ base cabinet with 2+2 drawers. Our microwave lives in this cabinet, but the 30″ cabinet would work just as well on it’s own.
3 – This a 24″ opening with no cabinet, just a simple panel running along the entire side of the island to enclose it. We have our beverage cooler here, but a basic 24″ base cabinet would work as well.
4 & 5 – 26″ wall cabinet with 2 doors. Because theses two cabinets are only 12″ deep we had to use wall cabinets. The only major difference here was the lack of legs for support. We screwed the legs in manually, however a separate base can be built instead.
And if anyone is confused with how the cabinets are working together, individual front views:
Now, moving on to the butcher block countertop. As mentioned in the source list we purchased two separate pieces of butcher block from Lumber Liquidators, each 25″ x 8′. We could have opted to purchase a single slab (not offered at Lumber Liquidators) but it would have cost us several thousands of dollars more than the $518 we spent.
After cutting them to size at 25″ x 6’2″ (make sure you have a sharp blade, the butcher block is very dense) we drilled pilot holes on an angle from beneath the countertop with a 3/16 inch counter-sink bit. To combine the two pieces we used several 3-inch wood screws to secure. This process gave an extremely tight fit for a nearly seamless countertop.
And at a distance, the seam is nearly invisible..
We then finished with a few coats of Minwax’s Dark Walnut and a water-based polycrylic (note: not food safe).
If I’ve left any major details out, be sure to let me know in the comments! I’d be happy to clear up any remaining questions 🙂