We made a small update in our guest bath. It’s definitely no big reveal, so don’t be disappointed. We’ve had our eyes out for some artwork to fill our completely bare walls in the newly renovated bath. I finally took matters into my own hands a few weeks ago, and then the art sat on our dining room table for three weeks until we decided it might look better actually hanging on the wall Genius.
We used a few pics (that hubs took himself on our first ever vacation, more on that here) from our previous home’s bathroom. But I decided to switch things up a little with the mat inserts. I LOVE simple white frames (who doesn’t) but they can tend to get a little repetitive, aka boring, throughout an entire home. A simple way to switch it up without losing that cohesiveness and flow in your home is to get creative with the mat. Spray painting the mat in a fun color, or replacing it with simple construction paper can really make you’re photos pop. Another trick I love is adding fabric or material around the mat.
This time around we chose to go with burlap. I had some extra lying around from a table runner I made a while back, so this didn’t cost a thing. I just cut it to size, wrapped it around the mats, and secured with painter’s tape. So easy, but I think it really adds a lot of interest and A TON of texture.
Burlap is a little messy up close, nothing we can do about that, but I’m kind of loving the homemade/ not so straight lines look.
Coming down the hallway and seeing this out of the corner of my eye just makes my day.
We have a piece in mind for the opposite wall from an amazing Etsy shop that will bring in a ton of color. Just a matter of pulling the trigger…
Tackled any burlap projects of your own lately? Any cool ideas for dressing up mats? I’d love to hear em
If you aren’t familiar with the Pinterest Challenge, it’s a little less formal than it sounds. Basically just a super fun way to encourage yourself to pull yourself away from the addicting site that Pinterest is, and actually.. wait for it… DO something that you pinned. Crazy concept right? I’m so down for this brilliant challenge thought up by duh, Sherry & Katie. And considering that I only have about 70 pins on my “DIY board” alone, deciding which project to tackle only took me a few hours And this winner is…
A growth chart for the kiddos, decked out in all it’s rustic-ness. The best part, it hangs right on the wall so you can easily take it with you to the next house or simply another space in your home. We’d be number two on that list. No moving here. This house is a lifer.
So, despite how fairly simple this project turned out to be, I spent at least six to eight months eyeing it on Pinterest before taking the leap. And to be completely honest, it would’ve most likely been another four without this challenge. I’ll walk through a few of the steps we took to get from “a 2×10 piece of wood on the shelf at Lowes” to “growth chart awesomeness”.
First up, cutting the wood to the correct length. We knew that we wanted ours to sit a few inches off the floor (enough to allow for the 4inch baseboard plus a few inches above that). We went with six inches off the floor and cut the board at an even six feet. That allows for a max height of 6’6. Lets be real here people, 6’6 is re-donk-ulous. I tap out at nearly 5’3 and Rick is a tall 5’6.. and we’re not the short one’s our families. Plus, lets just give the girls the benefit of the doubt and say they reach six foot someday. Who in the world still measures they’re kids’ heights when they’re over six feet tall? Please don’t let us be those parents.
Moving on. Sanding and staining. Since this piece is meant for the kids’ use and will be in their reach at any given point throughout the day we made sure to make it nice and smooth. Rick sanded it down with 80 grit sand paper and applied a single coat of our fav, Minwax’s Dark Walnut.
We thought about beating it up a little, taking a few chains or hammers to it. You know, some distressing to go with the rustic feel. But… we got lazy and called it a day. HOWEVER, we think that’d be a totally cool look if you’re up for the additional five minutes of labor
We let the stain cure overnight before I hit it up with some black paint and sharpie. Really, I don’t know I’m doing a “tutorial” on this. It’s self-explanatory. I used a sharpie to mark the inches and basic black acrylic paint to stencil the numbers.
A few hours later and several coats of water-based poly and ta-dah. Pinterest Challenge DOMINATED.
Head on over to check out the other challengers here! Any others get their pinterest on this week? Feel free to link to your own projects. I’d love to see what you guys have come up with
We’ve been getting quite a few requests for more details on how we undermounted our kitchen sink. So, we’ll be taking a short break from bath related posts to wrap up a few things in the kitchen
If you’re familiar with Ikea’s Domsjo sink, then you know how incredibly affordable it is when compared to other farmhouse style sinks on the market. Hello, under $150 with discount? Sign us up. That being said, one of the major drawbacks was that it’s an overmount sink (sits on top of the countertop). Bleh. We had an overmount sink in our previous home and on top of the aesthetic disadvantage, we also found that crumbs were always making their way into the seam, and clean up was completely dysfunctional. We love that an undermount sink makes everything seamless. Easy for wiping down the counters and no hidden spots for germs and food to collect. Plus, she’s gorge..
The cabinet we chose to use, Akurum’s 23 7/8″ base cabinet for single bowl sink, is actually no different than what is recommended for the regular overmount installation of the sink. So, pretty easy there. However, we switched out the two standard door fronts for a 24″x18″ style that better fits the adjusted cabinet.
(Note that if you decide to go with the larger version of the Domsjo sink, these plans would obviously need some altering)
It’s important to set the base cabinet just as the others are throughout the kitchen prior to making any adjustments. This ensures that the cabinet and sink will sit level and line up with the adjacent base cabinets. Ok, now you can whip out the drill and jig saw
We began by using a jigsaw to remove 3/4 inch (slightly more than the height of the sink lip) from the top of each side panel on the base cabinet. This allows room for the lip that extends on each side of the sink so it can sit snug beneath the countertop.
We then used a 1/8 inch drill bit to pre-drill the holes for the front and rear support braces. The braces are included with the sink, but the holes that come pre-drilled in the base cabinet no longer line up after dropping the sink height 3/4 inch. We also bumped the brace back slightly to allow for safe placement of the new pre-drilled holes. Placing them directly in the line of Ikea’s pre-drilled holes would provide all the necessary conditions for the wood to split. Install the braces as normal, substituting Ikea’s provided screws with 3/4 inch wood screws to fit the new openings.
Next up, placing the sink. She’s pretty heavy, weighing just over 70 lbs, so we’d definitely recommend two people for this step. Other than that, pretty self-explanatory. Put the sink in the cabinet, resting on top of the braces.
Once the sink is in place, we began installing the middle mounting brackets. These are located on each side panel between the front and rear braces. We don’t have a picture for this step, but the brackets are included with the sink and were installed just as previously described for the front and rear braces. Again, we pre-drilled new holes and used wood screws to secure. Check.
Before moving onto the install of the plumbing you’ll want to ensure that everything is level and make adjustments as needed. Ricky likes to brag that he had everything level on the first try, aka the go-ahead for me to hand out more projects for my newly found carpenter. We’ll let him keep talking.
Now, onto the exterior of the cabinet. The two doors (12×24″) that are included with the base cabinet no longer fit after lowering the sink significantly. And because Ikea doesn’t offer replacement doors in a 12×18″ size allowing for two side by side doors, we opted to go with a single 24×18″ option instead. This size is the closest fit, with minimal filler pieces. Leading me to the final step… filler. Any wood piece could be used to fill the remaining space between the door and the bottom of the sink, but we chose to use the toe-kick intended for the base cabinets. Ikea sells these pieces in 8 foot length sections, which we used in several areas throughout the kitchen. Definitely worth purchasing if you’ll be DIYing an Ikea kitchen of your own.
Our undermount sink is by no means perfect, and we’re sure there are several ways to go about this process (which we’d love to see!) but we are beyond thrilled with the result. Hopefully this tutorial was helpful for those of you looking to recreate the look. If I’ve left anything out or completely confused anyone just let me know and I’ll try to clear things up.
Happy 4th of July for those of you in the States! We’ll be spending the 96 degree day with friends and family, and hopefully near a pool